Author Archives: Dusty Tracker

The Return to Santiago de Compostela

The morning at the Provincial Albergue was the same as at the others – an early rise and we had to leave by 8am so that the volunteers could clean the dormitory in preparation for the arrival of today’s pilgrims. Except one thing was different. This was my last day in an albergue for the […]

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San Roque – Finisterre

The morning was cool and sunny and it would be another hot day. The last day of walking! An early rise with a strong conviction and anticipation that I would complete the distance. The friendly volunteer in the albergue had laid out bread and jam on the table and there was hot fresh coffee. A […]

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Puente Olveiroa – San Roque

Everyone was feeling a bit slow in the morning after last night’s free flowing wine and excellent food. I woke with the outside of the bivi bag saturated with condensation from the cold overnight air. It had been a good fitful sleep all the same. I packed up again – the routine of packing up […]

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Negreira – Puente Olveiroa

It was still dark and it was still raining. There was a lot of activity at about 5:30am inside the albergue as the keen walkers were getting ready to leave. I had a couple of fresh peaches and a coffee with the others who had been forced to spend the night on the floor of […]

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Santiago de Compostela – Negreira

Well it was a slow start! After three days enjoying Santiago de Compostela it was time to begin the final push to Finisterre. I said goodbye to Esvina and promised that I would take up her kind offer of a free bed and family meal on my return to the city. She had been very […]

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Santiago de Compostela

It was good to awake at the final destination! I had slept so well. The guest house unfortunately advised me in the morning that she had double booked and would I mind moving to a friend of hers just round the corner? Not a problem. I packed up as quickly as usual. I thought nothing […]

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Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela

This would be the last day of walking the intended route. Though I was determined to continue to the coast at Cape Finisterre. In Lectoure so many days ago I had laid my rucksack against a wall outside a supermarket. The scallop of Saint James on the rucksack had broken into three pieces. I had […]

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Near Castaneda – Pedrouzo

I slept well under the open sky. Waking at about 6am as it got light, the fog still covered me like a blanket. The fog was dense and the air heavy with moisture. I packed up and went back to the road unsure of exactly where I was. The fog was so thick that it […]

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Portomarin – Near Castaneda

The morning was damp and humid after the huge storm last night. After breakfast I finally found the way out of town, down to the edge of the reservoir and across a narrow iron footbridge. Climbing upwards on a good wide path, the trees dripped their water as they shed the weight of the storm. […]

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Barbadelo – Portomarin

Unlike O Cebreiro, Barbadelo was on the edge of a low valley. On waking, the day outside looked miserable. It was raining and there was a lot of cloud and mist. It was cold and damp. There was nowhere to get breakfast so I heated some coffee in the utensil-free kitchen using my own pots. […]

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