Sleep was getting easier and I awoke early and fully rested. I was on my way before eight o’clock. The town was deserted and a local couple said that I was the first person they had seen that morning. Nasbinals is at 1180m and it was cold, about 3 degrees. The way continued upwards across more moors and I kept thinking I was in Scotland.
I met two other walkers near the top of the pass. They had wandered off the path and ended up in some trees. I walked with them for a while and they told me they had slept in a concrete shelter the previous night as they could not find any accommodation! They had been cold, very cold. Snow and ice appeared on the way as we continued and the wind was bitterly cold but the place was magical. It started to snow lightly at 1320m (the highest point on the Via Podiensis) just before we arrived in Aubrac. There was a fascinating church with the English Tower. There was a small refuge in the tower where pilgrims could stay the night. After the biting cold, we deserved an apricot brioche and coffee at the cafe Chez Germaine and looked forward to a long descent after the last days of climbing.
Eight kilometres later was Saint Chely d’Aubrac. I was keen to continue to Saint Côme d’Olt stopping briefly for a coffee at a self-serve pilgrim stop in a barn in Lestrade (just leave a donation). When I got to Saint Côme d’Olt I found the gite communal but had to go to the gite Le Jardin d’Eliane to register and pay. Later that evening I met up with Sophie and Jacques in a cafe to talk about the day’s walking.